a little while back, i gave a sneak preview of something new[ish] from rouge bunny rouge. i'm a little behind the times here, since the launch happened in the spring, but a girl has to pace herself sometimes. [also, i was hesitant to order from the web site because of the usurous charges levied by dhl on international deliveries, but happily, rbr have switched to regular post as a fallback. it takes a little longer to arrive, but if it means not having to shell out an extra 35% for faxing paper work to the canada customs office, i'm willing to make that compromise. the dhl option is still available for those of you who value speed.]
in the spring, rouge bunny rouge relaunched their entire lipstick line. the "colour burst" full coverage lipsticks were culled down to five shades, all of which had been in the previous line. the "succulence of dew" semi-sheer line was also culled down to five shades, but only one ["murmurings"] is a holdover from the previous line. the packaging also changed to a black-on-black pattern and while i had no issue with their previous packaging, it does look nice. i did have an issue with the packaging, but we'll get to that shortly.
the first thing that caught my attention was that the new "succulence of dew" shades included a couple of bold options. although they have the standard opaque red, rbr lipsticks have generally been very muted and natural, no matter the level of coverage they offer. as a fan of saturated colours, this got me very excited and, unsurprisingly, i ended up ordering both of the bold new options. but first, a few words about the new range in general.
the formula is indeed semi-sheer, although it's pretty bold at the same time. the colour applies evenly, often a failing point of semi-sheer lipsticks. it always maintains a little translucency, although the shade is strong enough that your natural lip colour won't have much effect [unless your lips are very pigmented]. there are lighter and more muted shades where i think the underlying lip colour might come into play more, but i can't be certain of that, since i've not tried them.
compared to the old "succulence of dew" lipsticks, which i did like, i'd say this represents an improvement in every respect. the formula appears to be consistent [based on the two that i bought and photos i've seen on line of the others]. the shades last longer. they feel absolutely lovely on the lips and, true to the claim, they are lightly hydrating while worn. if you're a fan of chantecaille's "lip chic" formula, i'd recommend checking these out.
i experienced a slight "fuzziness" at the edges, which is about standard for a slick texture like these have, but there was no noticeable feathering or bleeding unless i reapplied directly after a meal. [oils in food will ruin the texture of any lipstick unless you clean the area thoroughly and reapply from scratch.] if you're after a super-crisp line, however, you'll want to opt for a liner.
i referred earlier to an issue with the packaging, which is the only real complaint i have about the new lipsticks: the bullets in both shades that i purchase slide right back down into the casing the moment there's any pressure on them. so when you're applying, you have to be able to hold tightly onto the mobile part of the casing, or the lipstick just disappears back into its cave. i wish them well on correcting this, because it's as if the moulds don't have a tight enough fit when combined. in my experience, adjusting moulds for plastic or metal is a pain in the ass.
and now, let's move on to the individual shades i purchased.
first up, we have "relish of heaven", one of those typically rbr names that sounds so wonderful even if it doesn't tell you what you're getting in the colour. it is a juicy bright red that applies with an intense shine. it does become more satiny as it sets, but i'd say that it keeps a sheen longer than most formulas i've seen. this one boasts some serious staying power, too. it sets to a nice, even stain that will even survive a light meal. i like the fact that the stain is more or less the same colour you get on application, just a little bit softened.
|relish of heaven|
everything i had in a similar vein was more opaque [like armani rouge ecstasy in "spice"], which makes them look a lot different. i thought i'd compare it to another semi-sheer formula, chanel's rouge coco shine, but as you can see, while the shade "antigone" is plenty red in the tube, it's a lot sheerer on application. a true red that's a little translucent, it turns out, is a rare thing, even for a red
hoarder lover like me.
|l to r :: relish of heaven, chanel antigone|
second, i got "jasmine-weighted air", which is nothing like the previous rbr lipstick that bore that name [that was a soft neutral]. the new "jasmine-weighted air" is a bold-looking fuchsia that applies just a little more muted than you'd think from the colour in the bullet. the formula was pretty much the same as "relish of heaven", although the stain left behind after a few hours was softer. it's an interesting colour, because it's bold but not as bold as you might think. although it looks very cool in the tube, it leans a little redder on application.
armani rouge ecstasy "pink bliss" is a little cooler, but fairly similar. guerlain rouge automatique "shalimar" is lighter and cooler.
|l to r :: armani 511 pink bliss, jasmine-weighted air, guerlain shalimar|
clearly, the overall experience here was a positive one. i'm seriously think of ordering the remaining two shades [the new "murmurings" looks extremely similar to the old one, which i have]. the glitch with the packaging is annoying, because holding the lipstick further up is more awkward than you would think, but what's inside the packaging is a really nice product. i'm a little sad that the range isn't broader- rbr could really use some pinks, as well as plum and berry tones and generally more options for cooler skin- but i'm impressed at the tweaks that have been made.
as a little add-on, i also purchased two eye shadows, in my slow but sure movement towards owning all the damned rouge bunny rouge shadows. this time, i went with two workhorse shades i knew would see a lot of use: matte cream "papyrus canary" and warm, shimmery "unforgettable oriole".
"papyrus canary" has really nice colour payoff, typical of other rbr matte shades. it's a sort of parchment kind of shade, yellowy, but with a bit of a brownish undertone. it's light, but not light enough to be a highlight shade on me. it's close to the colour of my skin.
|l to r :: inglot 351, papyrus canary, inglot 352|
"unforgettable oriole" is described as a "metallic white gold", but i find on my skin it looks slightly peachy rather than yellow. it seems very much like a warm-toned counterpart to "alabaster starling" and, indeed, the performance is very similar. both are frosted, but somehow never look heavy on the lids, even when worn all over. it's like a magical trick, how rbr do this. these shimmery shades can go from dazzling to delicate, depending on how you apply them, but they never seem to go wrong, at least on my eyes.
i compared it to two other rouge bunny rouge shades in the same basic range: "snowy egret" is cooler and has a dirtied look to it; "golden rhea" is more of a soft gold, a bit darker and warmer.
|l to r :: rbr snowy egret, unforgettable oriole, rbr golden rhea|
both of these are excellent shades and they are the kind of things you'll reach for all the time. "papyrus canary is excellent for blending as well as for use on its own. "unforgettable oriole" makes a nice brow highlight when dusted along the brow bone, but holds its own as a lid colour.
finally, although i didn't keep a log of what i was wearing, here's a look at both shadows [with a little "sweet dust seriema" in the crease and illamasqua precision ink liner in "wisdom"] , along with "jasmine-weighted air" in a look. this is the sort of thing that i default to wearing, so forgive me if it isn't quite universal in style [is anything?]. i do consider this appropriate for just about anywhere, but i suspect a lot of people will see it as being more appropriate for a night out.
i think these photos illustrate the seemingly oxymoronic description i used earlier "muted fuchsia". i'd say it's more than pink, but not the full-on crazy fuchsias you're used to seeing.
doesn't look like the trail of bunnies coming into my house will be ending any time soon.